This sleepy village - Barfleur, in Normandy - was once the greatest port on the Norman coast. It was from here that Matilda's grandfather, William, Duke of Normandy, set off to conquer England in 1066. 54 years later, another Norman fleet set out from Barfleur to cross the channel. At it's head was the King of England, Henry I, in his great dragon-headed longship, and behind him, in a newly fitted-out vessel called the White Ship, was his son and heir, William, with a large party of young noblemen. It was November, late in the year for what could be a treacherous crossing. But the water in Barfleur harbour was still and glassy, and there seemed no need for concern. The King set sail first at twilight, to be followed by William and his company of ebullient young aristocrats. But when the White Ship slipped out into the dark water, everyone on board was roaring drunk.