Most of the land sits in warm waters, but travel south and the character of the islands change. New Zealand is not tropical but temperate. The ocean currents which cool New Zealand's waters occasionally bring icebergs. Starting in the Antarctic, they've drifted for nearly eight months, on the way, passing the most southerly outpost in the South Pacific. Where New Zealand's temperate seas merge with the icy waters of the Southern Ocean, lies a solitary piece of land 85 miles of wave-lashed coastline. It looks desolate, but it's not deserted. At certain times of year, there's more life here than on any other island in the Pacific.