The cliff tops are soon stained pink with the droppings of tens of thousands of nesting penguins Only in a land almost entirely covered in ice could bare rock be reckoned an oasis Some will travel into the heart of the continent to find it These are nunataks the exposed peaks of vast mountain ranges buried in ice over a mile deep The eerie silence here is only broken in spring The snow petrels have arrived and are courting Antarctic petrels now join the most southerly bird colony on earth The birds have flown inland for over 300 miles to reach this breeding site Once their eggs have hatched they'll be forced repeatedly to make the 600-mile round trip to gather food in the ocean